Christmas 2012 and New Years Eve in Florence 2013

Christmas is just few days away, and also New Year's Eve... I know from the increase of visitors that a lot of you are luckily spending time in Florence for these festivities, so here some tips to enjoy your time over here, swinging by closed restaurants, closed museums, lots of people, lots of drinks.. :)

*** Museums exceptionally open ***

Christmas and January 1st will be basically all closed, shops museums and most restaurants... so stay in your hotel room as much as you can, or if you really want to do something here what there is open:

- Archeological Museum - Dec 25th from 08,30 am to 2,00 pm and Jan 1st from 1,30 pm to 7,00 pm

Medici Villas La Pietraia and Poggio a Caiano - Jan 1st from 09,30 am to 3,30 pm

"Never Seen" temporary exhibition at Reali Poste room - Jan 1st from 1,30 pm to 7,30 pm

"30ies - Art during Fascism" temporary exhibition at Strozzi Palace - open Dec 25th and Jan 1st

Vecchio Palace Museum - Jan 1st from 2pm to 7 pm

*** Restaurants for Christmas Lunch 2012***

Just few places are open in this occasion, cause Christmas is definitely the most important religious event in Italy, and everybody is home eating like it's their last supper in the life, so if you are around and you don't want to come over my house, you could go to:

- Touch Florence - Via Fiesolana 18/r - 055 2466150 - a new and super yummy reality in Florence

- Caffè Pitti - Piazza Pitti 9 - 055 2399863 - causy and charming caffè

- Paoli - via dei Tavolini 12/r - 055 216215 -  a guarantee in the tuscan cuisine

*** Restaurants open for New Year's Eve***

They are divided into 3 categories: those who are closed; those who are open and have a huge, fixed, long and pricy menu; those who have an almost regular à la carte Menu. Here's my favourites:

- Touch Florence - Via Fiesolana 18/r - 055 2466150 - à la carte

- BSJ - Borgo San Jacopo 12/r - 055 281661 - big Menu

- Buca Lapi - Via del Trebbio 1/r - 055 213768 - à la carte

- Alle Murate - via del Proconsolo - 055 240618 - big Menu

- Cinghiale Bianco - Borgo San Jacopo 43/r - 055 215706 - à la carte

Have fun!

Cappellacci @ Touch

Bistecca @ Buca Lapi

Gazpacho and fried prawns @ BSJ

Vasari Corridor November 3rd

Se capite un pò d'italiano e siete a Firenze il prossimo weekend, venite con me a visitare il corridoio Vasariano! Una visita unica! Per dettagli visitate l'altro mio blog qui

Hi! I'm organizing a special visit November 3rd at the Vasari Corridor, it is going to be in italian, therefore I have written in italian :) If you understand enough my language check details of the tour here and then write me!

A luxurious sandwich @ 'Ino

This place is a hidden pearl, a very little Bottega where you can have the sandwich of your dreams. You can inspire yourself looking the full list of possibilities or just asking a suggestion to the girls at the desk, as I did.

I have chosen a fresh Pecorino Cheese with herbs, and they easily suggested me to mix it with a Pepperoni Mustard and Salame.... It will come hot, crunchy and definitely delicious.

It will cost you a bit, but you can trust the excellent level of quality of food.

In the small rooms, three, there are high chairs and little tables to enjoy your sandwich, and maybe putting the icing on the cake by buying some of the products they sell, all coming by DOP regions (italian control system of quality and specific areas where a product come from), like Capperi from Pantelleria, Pasta of Gragnano, all different types of ExtraVergine Oil, wine, sundried tomatoes, jams, wines.....

'Ino

Via dei Georgofili 3/7 red

just behind Uffizi Gallery

open from 11,00 am to 04,30 pm 

Outlet the Mall and restaurants close by

Florence it's a fantastic city, full of art treasures, nobles palaces, art galleries, sculptures... a month it is not enough to visit all of the secret corners... while you're exploring the city, you might want to desire to do some shopping. Why not, we have the best boutiques, or the small artisan shops... but if you feel like do some shopping AND save a bunch of money, then you have to go to the Outlet the Mall!

It is very famous, people come on purpose, I think it's the best outlet. 22 of the main brands, such as Gucci, Armani, Valentino, Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Loro Piana, Marni, Dior, Tod's and so on....

Discount from 30 to 70 %, on items of the past collection.

It is only 30 minutes south Florence, going south on the highway A1 directions Rome; exit at "Incisa Valdarno", turn right after 10-15 minutes ride you'll get to Leccio, the little town where the Mall is located.

Very close by there is also Dolce & Gabbana outlet, and a bit more far away, 20 minutes souther there is Miu Miu and Prada Outlet.

The Mall
Via Europa, 8
Leccio-Reggello

Photo Source: Hotel Rigacci

Inside the Mall there is a cafeteria and a restaurant. But if you want to experience also the typical tuscan cuisine, in the countryside, then follow these tips:

Piazzetta al Burchio - a little Alimentari (a groucery shop) that have few tables where you can have a very simple but incredibly tasty meal. Typical tuscan cuisine, of course, pasta, lasagne, ravioli, tortelli, tagliata, bistecca, fried chicken, also different types of fish and cakes.They have a Menu del Giorno (menu of the day) that changes frequent, written on a simple yellow paper. Prices are incredibly low, first course 5 Euro, second course from 7 to 10 Euro, side dish and desserts 2 Euro. Nothing, no?
It is open every day for lunch and dinner, and it is also take away.

- How to get there from the Mall?
Go back towards Incisa Valdarno (out the Mall turn right) - before to get inside the town of Incisa turn right, cross the river Arno and turn right. Follow that street for 5 minutes and you'll get to a very small group of houses, called "Il Burchio". Park the car and look for the Alimentari, right on the main street.

There is also a Trattoria, but I have not tried. Seems definitely more expensive, and not necessarily better tasting.

Piazzetta Il Burchio

Località il Burchio, 13
055 8330880 - cell 335 6831844

No website
Open daily lunch and dinner

Accept credit cards

Rigatoni Gorgonzola and Mascarpone

Sformati (similar to omelette) of Broccoli, Zucchine and Spinach

Tagliere di salumi and crostini


Tasty Tagliata rosemary

If you want another tip, then I have to tell you a secret place, a pure jem, an Agriturismo located in the middle of Chianti hills, with 4 rooms, an amazing pool, a beautiful traditional restaurant... during the summer they organize open air cinemas, art forum, paitings exhibitions, it is a very cute and interesting place. And of course they produce their own wine, oil, vegetables, raise chickens and rabbits. The owner, Perla, is a charming lady very welcoming and warm.

What's the name of the place? Perlamora. They have fixed menu lunches and dinner, with 25 euro, beverage included, you'll have a full meal of antipasti, 2 first course, a second course and dessert. All products of the Agriturismo.

Go, I love this place.

- how to get there from the Mall?

Go right out the outlet, like going back to highway. Pass the town of Incisa and go on until you get to the next town of Figline Valdarno. Turn right at the Hotel Torricelli, then again right, towards Greve in Chianti and Ponte agli Stolli. Follow directions for Perlamora.

Perlamora

Via Golfonaia, 29

Pavelli - Figline Valdarno

055 951904

Reservation recommended

Accept credit cards

The beautiful Art Decò Villa in front of the agriturismo

the Restaurant


Antipasto Coccoli (like fried bread) ham and stracchino cheese

Sorry, no more photos, too much wine :)

Trattoria da Sergio in San Lorenzo

I had a quick lunch in this super simple Trattoria right in the middle of the Market of San Lorenzo, you'll find it behind the curtains of the hundrends of colourfull stands, in the main street next to the right nave of the Church of San Lorenzo.
I know there is another Sergio, but on the other side of the river, I haven't tried it yet.

This place doesn't have a website, it is very casual, I'll put you the telephone number but I'm not sure they accept reservations...
They're quick, and even if you see it is super packed try to ask to the waiters how long you'll have to wait, they'll give you an idea.

The menu is written on a simple papershit, like the table cloth and the furniture in general, the service, everything is easygoing but the quality of the food is top high, and you have the chance to try the real tuscan trattoria.

I had a "braciola fritta con patate e pomodori" that means fried milanese cotoletta style, with tomatoes and fried potatoes - huge portion and excellent taste!

Da Sergio is open only for lunch, and it is closed on Sundays.

Trattoria da Gozzi Sergio
Since 1915 (wow!)
Piazza S. Lorenzo, 8r
055 281941
Closed every evening and Sunday at lunch

Osteria Cinghiale Bianco - White Wild Boar

Finally I'm posting one of my favourite place in town - Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco, better known among foregneirs as White Wild Boar, which is the exact translation of the italian name. Thereore, plenty of little white wild boars will be your friends during dinner, on the simple paper table cloth, the wine jug, on the walls, everywhere :)
And of course inside your dishes, since the boar is their typical and special ingredient: tagliatelle with wild boar, wild boar stewed, cold cuts made by boar..... yummi!

The menu is based on Tuscan traditions, so all the pasta you can imagine, cold cuts, "crostini" and "bruschetta" and of course meat - also vegetables and some fish, bt mostly meat: "tagliata" "bistecca" " peposo alla fornacina", all famous dishes of our tradition.

Great dessert also, especially the Tiramisu or Strawberries with Mascarpone cream.... God, I could die for it!!

The place is very cozy, small, located in an ancient medieval tower, in the beautiful Borgo San Jacopo street, in Oltrarno side, the real side of the river. Staff is the best, friendly, fun but very professional, trust them for your choices, and choose one of the many wine bottles they have.

Open just for dinners, starts serving at 06,30 pm, which is great if you have a theather show, or just leaving early next morning, since the 90% of places in town doesn't open until 07,30 pm.
During the weekends, saturdays and sundays, opens also for lunch.

Go there, and say HI to Massimo the owner or Mauro the Chef from my side, Elaiza!

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco
Borgo San Jacopo, 43 red
Florence
+39 055 215706
www.cinghialebianco.it

Open for dinners from 06,30 to 10,30 pm
open for lunch also on Saturdays and Sundays
closed all day on Wednesdays

Bruschetta and crostini toscani

Cold cuts, pecorino cheese and burrata with truffle

Peposo cooked with Chianti


Tagliata with rosemary

Taste!

From March 12th to 14th at Stazione Leopolda it will take place the sixth edition of Taste, the place for food and wine lovers, especially for italian cuisine obviously :)

240 specialist of delightful products, it will be a divine trip into our culture, and its most known expression - the buon mangiare!

Check out the official website here - it will open to everybody from 10,30 am to 08,30 pm, 15 Euro the ticket

Enjoy it!

Santa Maria Novella Church

Today we are talking about a beautiful florentine Church, called by Michelangelo "my bride", quarterheads of Dominican Friars, who settled in this area just outside the city wall in 1220, when they came into Florence as all of the other friars orders, to help poor people who were living just outside the city and also to survey the ortodoxyof catholicism.

The huge medieval church is impressive - they used to have vibrant speaches that got together plenty of people, that had to stand also outside the church, therefore friars were choosing such big Piazzas.
This square was famous also because here a lot of public games were held, for example the Calcio in Costume (soccer similar to american rugby), or Palio dè Cocchi, a race of 4 two-horses chariots roman style, much beloved by Granduc Cosimo I.

The façade is a very important example of Renaissance - the main artist, Leon Battista Alberti, could mix the already existant medieval façade of the first level with armony and semplicity, working superbly on marble inlaids, using the roman language of columns, geometric shapes such as circles, squares, triangle etc.

Inside, you will be absorbed by a solemn calme and peace - you would admire masterpieces such as Giotto wood crucifix, or Masaccio Trinity, and of course the spectacular chapels frescoed by Ghirlandaio and Filippino Lippi, just to mention some...

Right behind, there is a place that I love in Florence, the Spanish Chapel and the Green Cloister - a pearl, hard to find in Florence, no crowds of people, colourfull and interesting frescoes, dedicated to the Dominican friars history.

Don't forget to visit in Via della Scala 16 the Officina Profumeria Farmacia Santa Maria Novella, famous all over the world for its products, creams, parfums and so on...

The beautiful façade

Spanish Chapel fresco




Green Cloister fresco by Paolo Uccello

New Year's Eve in Florence

If you are in town for New Year's Eve and you are looking for a nice party you can check this website, they suggest interesting events and tips to enjoy such a unique day of the year in the most charming town of the world :)

Check it out

Happy Holiday!

Dear All,

I wish to thank you for reading me, even just to look at the pictures, and I wish to say to you Merry Christmas, enjoy this holiday with your family, in health and happiness, that you can realize all of your dreams and if possible be a better human being, more that you already are

Florence under the snow last week was caotic but beautiful, and this is a photo of the day after, when sun was shining and the poor "Winter" statue was eventually freezing for real snow flakes

Auguri!

"Winter" statue by Francavilla, Santa Trinita bridge - Florence

Honeymoon in Florence

Florence is a lovely city where you can spend and enjoy an unforgettable honeymoon. Small and vibrant, charming and full of art and history, great food and better wine, shopping also is a must.

That is valid also for Florentines, who normally travel around the world ignoring the most part of the hidden and not-so-hidden treasures of my beautiful city. Most likely they go to the Louvre in Paris, but never stepped inside the Uffizi Gallery - appreciate the Guggenheim, but never saw the real David of Michelangelo inside the Accademia.

Therefore, I had the chance to guide a very nice young couple, both authentic Florentines, in their honeymoon, which was based for 3 days in Florence. They invited also some of their family members, who wanted to enjoy a guided visit to the sights and museums.
It was awesome!
For her, Ilaria, I have studied a special itinerary, including of course the main sights of Florence, but also extraordinary openings and visit of places that neither I have been.
It was really interesting and funny, seeing how Florentines show a huge passion for their city, and how their eyes sparkling hearing what was going on centuries ago.

Here's the itinerary:

Day 1 - Half day - exploring the Oltrarno area, walking around the beautiful district across the river, who retained a magic atmosphere, where actually a lot of artisans and workers still live, full of little "botteghe", antique and small groucery shops.
Palazzo Pitti - Palatine Gallery, the big "quadreria" by the Medici Family: Raphael, Titian, Giorgione, Andrea del Sarto, Rembrandt....just to mention few names.

Day 2 - Full day - the medieval Florence, and how it grows from the roman origin through the dark ages, and finally the golden years of Renaissance
Palazzo Davanzati, the museum of the typical Florentine Renaissance house, with the special opening of the second and third floors, with the beautiful kitchen, old tools and original house objects.
Orsanmichele, on Monday you can climb up to the third floor, where you enjoy an amazing and unusual view of the town

Lunch in a typical place, suggested by me

Baptistry - special visit of the "Matroneo", the upper floors used in the past by women only, who didn't have authorization to stand where men attended the service in the main floor - you can almost touch the mosaics, was really touching even for me!
Cathedral, and climb of the 463 steps of the Brunelleschi's Dome, where the view of the city is the best!

Day 3 - Full day - church and museum of Santa Croce - visit to the adjoining historical Scuola del Cuoio, the Leather school where artisan masters show you how they work, and where you can buy the best leather in Florence
Walk in the vibrant areas of Santa Croce and Bargello

After a great lunch, special and extraodinary visit of Palazzo Vecchio, the Old Palace - we could visit by ourselves the magic jem of Studiolo and Tesoretto, two hidden and rare place full of history and art - visit to the capriate roof, the timber roof, you are actually above the magnificent ceiling of 500 Room! - walk on the upper floor of the building, where in the past the soldiers were walking by to defense and check for the palace - the view here is also beautiful

So, if you are on honeymoon, or if you just wish to do part or the entire itinerary just write me!

From third floor of Orsanmichele

Magic walk into the Matroneo of Baptistry

About to touch the mosaics

On the way up to the Dome

Jump from the Dome

View from the Palazzo Vecchio top

Pandemonio - che buono!

I just love this place. If you want a real tuscan flavour night, this is your place.

The restaurant is located in the beautiful district of Oltrarno, which retained the traditional atmosphere of artisans workers district.

You step in a first room, which is often empty, cause the "heart" is the second room and the inner garden, passing right next to the kitchen.

You will be welcomed by Mamma, which is the great owner of the restaurant, and a real Mum; she will take care of you from the beginning to the end of your meal, preparing and presenting delicious dishes all home made.

The cuisine is the typical toscan one: crostini, cold cuts, home made pasta, great meat, and also some fish.

We ordered the Mamma Antipasto, a huge and various appetizers to taste a bit of all the starters: ham, crostini with tuscan chicken liver paté , Panzanella with cous cous, spelt with sausages, zucchini pie, peppers in oil, the best Bruschetta ever had, sweet and sour onions.... we could have dine even just with the appetizers!

As first course we got: Pappa al pomodoro (typical tomato and bread soup), pasta with Mamma ragout, Fagottini with zucchini, zucchini flowers and Pecorino cheese

As second course we got Ossobuco with peas. We saw a raw Bistecca pass by, and we were about to order it, but we were already way to full to handle it!

As dessert we got a fantastic cheese cake and a Tiramisù

She not pressing you to leave the table, as a bunch of places in town do, and you can also smoke a little sigarette in the little garden, if you feel like.

Prices are in the Florence range, let's say around 50 Euro per person, then depends a lot from the wine you chose, obviously.

Pandemonio

Via del Leone 50 red

0039 055 224002

Closed on Sundays

Delicious Bruschetta

This is what I got from the huge Mamma's Antipasto!

mmmm... it looked good!

Fagottini with zucchini and Pecorino cheese

Pappa al Pomodoro

Ossobuco with peas

Io & Mamma